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How to photograph tonight’s full moon

November 2nd, 2009, 3:34 pm · 5 Comments · posted by Gary Robbins, science writer-editor

kathleenshannoncm

FULL MOON RISIN': Altocumulus clouds drift in front of a full moon earlier this year. Photo by Kathleen Shannon of Costa Mesa

There will be a full moon this evening shortly after sunset. The “beaver moon,” as the full moon of November is sometimes called, will rise in the east-northeast at about 5:15 p.m. The moon will progressive move east as it climbs above the horizon. The Farmers Almanac says the moon was given its name because, “This was the time to set beaver traps before the swamps froze, to ensure a supply of warm winter furs. Another interpretation suggests that the name Full Beaver Moon comes from the fact that the beavers are now actively preparing for winter. It is sometimes also referred to as the Frosty Moon.”

PHOTOGRAPHING TONIGHT’S FULL MOON

Here are some photography tips from photokaboom.com

Focal Length

Use a focal length from 200mm to 500mm.

If you want to fill the frame with the moon, you must use the largest (longest) focal length that you can.
Which Phase is Best?

While a full moon is dramatic, the surface appears somewhat featureless, as there are no shadows.

During the other phases, the moon is illuminated from the side, creating texture revealing shadows.
Altitude of the Moon & Exposure

Besides phase, exposure depends on the altitude of the moon above the horizon, due to the amount of light absorbed by the Earth’s atmosphere.

The moon is dimmer at the horizon than when it is high in the sky.
Apparent Motion

The moon will show apparent movement (the Earth’s rotation) at shutter speeds, roughly, slower than 1/15th of a second.

The slowest shutter speed that won’t blur the moon is dependent on the focal length.

At 200mm, the movement will not be as evident, compared to the movement at 500mm.
Suggested Exposure Settings
ISO 400 & f/8
Full Gibbous 1st Quarter Fat Crescent Narrow Crescent
1000th 500th 250th 125th 60th
Do the following

1) As mentioned, use the largest (longest) focal length that you can.

2) Use a tripod.

3) Use manual exposure mode (M).

4) Use the exposure settings below, and bracket.

You can also jot down some exposures from the Shaytech Moon Exposure Calculator.

5) If you can lock up the mirror in your camera, do so, to reduce vibration.

6) Trip the shutter with a remote release or use the self-timer feature.

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 5 Comments

  • Russ says:

    The article states, “The moon will progressively move east as it climbs above the horizon”. Well, the last time I checked, the moon traveled Westward across the sky as the night progressed, not Eastward. In reality though, the moon circles the Earth from West to East. So, perhaps that is what the writer is referring to?

  • Mike Sweeney says:

    You do your readers a disservice with these directions. The moon is actually brighter than a normal subject and requires about stop less exposure then you might think. Also, to get the harvest moon clouds and still get detail on the moon instead of a bright white orb, you need TWO exposures and then sandwich them together.

    F8 is a good starting point but the reality is that most readers are going to be using a very slow (read cheap) lens and could do with a bit more aperture to concentrate the light through the middle of the lens to get the sharpest image.

    Here is a sample. D300 at 200mm using a cheap VR 150 dollar lens. F22 and 1/320 second at ISO2000 - Hand held but using a wall as support.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightandimages/3982837196/

  • ordo says:

    Gary,

    Thanks as always for the photo advice. In an unrelated note, I am new to astronomy, do you know if there is a compiled list of dark sites or at least low light pollution areas to observe from in OC?

    Thanks

    ordo